VISITING NABLUS

I've just got back from visiting my friend Beesan in Nablus, the second largest city in the West Bank. Although the journey was smooth and easy there was just a little hiccup at the end. In the shared taxi from Ramullah to Nablus I got to know a very lovely and friendly woman, Samira. There is an Israeli check-point just outside Nablus where everyone has to get out of their vehicles and walk to the other side of the barrier where they are either met by friend or family or you have to take another cab. Well, although I had talked with Bessan at the start of the journey and had agreed to talk again when I neared Nablus so she could meet me or give me instructions on where to go, when we arrived at this place the Jawal phone network was down. I did not have her address or even her family name so I would have been completely stuck if Samera had not come to my rescue! She was met by her brother and took me in their car to another brother who had an office in town. They were very reassuring and told me not to worry it would get sorted. While we were drinking tea we eventually made contact with Beesan and they drove me to meet her outside the university. Thank you Samira and your brothers! We spent the evening "out on the town" in various places - first of all we met up with some very interesting people in a very authentic old hotel/bar. There was someone who is developing projects based on learning through international relationships and at present is working on a specifice EU North/South initiative where he is hoping to bring together young people from two countries in Europe (UK and France) and 2 countries south of Europe(Palestine and Tunisia) to spend time living together and learning from each other. Getting to know and understand different cultures through personal contact is surely the way forward. We also met a lively young woman who is developing an "Education for All " UN project which will monitor how students life is disrupted by delays at check points causing students to lose the required number of hours for their courses and also often missing their final exams. There was a bunch of Edinburgh uni students as well. We went on to have a meal in another new restaurant but with traditional cuisine.

I spent Friday with Beesan's family and her best friend. She has 2 sisters and a younger brother. They are great in their own individual ways - the warrier and searcher, the artist and the spiritual seeker, and Alla, the best friend was a delight. All unconventional and working out their own way, not easy in Arab society. Beesan's mother is a an absolute fighter - a member of the Palestinian Parliament - working toward liberation and full emancipation of women within Palestinian society. Even on Friday she was out giving speeches to students. I enjoyed a splendid leisurely Palestinian breakfast with eggs, aubergine, very tasty spinach-type dish, cheese, olives, tomatoes and flat bread. Toward the end of the afternoon we went for a walk in the mountains. It only takes a short time to get out of the city and we walked up the mountain. Spring was springing all around -the tiniest, brightest poppies you ever did see and little miniature irises and cyclamen. We climbed to the top of a rock with magnificent views and watched the sun set over the sea in the distance. Of course I forgot to bring my camera but when Beesan sends me copies of hers I will insert them in here.



Already only four weeks left of my stay! I can't believe it! I am enjoying being here so much and not looking forward to getting back to my little flat in London. I'll be going to Hebron this coming weekend so wait for the next episode!